Difference between revisions of "MakerBot Replicator 1 Upgrades and Repairs"
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# First major upgrade should be [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386 side panels and maybe a hood]. You want to control the air flow in the print chamber and help keep the chamber temperature stable. This will greatly minimize, or maybe eliminate, peeling/curling of ABS prints. A cheap method is to just use a few large paper sheets to cover up the sides including the top. | # First major upgrade should be [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386 side panels and maybe a hood]. You want to control the air flow in the print chamber and help keep the chamber temperature stable. This will greatly minimize, or maybe eliminate, peeling/curling of ABS prints. A cheap method is to just use a few large paper sheets to cover up the sides including the top. | ||
# Flash the Sailfish Firmware. The standard firmware is fine, but the Sailfish firmware, and the Sailfish team, are more responsive and consistent. The end result is the prints seem to be much better with less fuss. Your mileage may vary though. | # Flash the Sailfish Firmware. The standard firmware is fine, but the Sailfish firmware, and the Sailfish team, are more responsive and consistent. The end result is the prints seem to be much better with less fuss. Your mileage may vary though. | ||
# Proper nozzle gap. Once you figure out the leveling thing, you then have to get the proper gap between the nozzle and the plate. The bead should be flatter than rounder. Too flat and the nozzle will clog. Too round and the parts won't stick. | # Proper nozzle gap. Once you figure out the leveling thing, you then have to get the proper gap between the nozzle and the plate. The bead should be flatter than rounder. Too flat and the nozzle will clog. Too round and the parts won't stick. Print a one layer thick item, then measure it and make sure it is within 0.02mm(ish) of the target layer height (0.1-0.3mm) | ||
# Next major tool is leveling. Get a dial gauge indicator and print [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23257 a mounting bracket]. This will help get your platform level much faster. Also, level while the platform is heated. | # Next major tool is leveling. Get a dial gauge indicator and print [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:23257 a mounting bracket]. This will help get your platform level much faster. Also, level while the platform is heated. | ||
# Replace the MK8 delrin plungers with a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28241 spring-loaded one]. There's some screws and springs needed, but the filament loading should be much more smooth and it's easier to clean the feed gear. | # Replace the MK8 delrin plungers with a [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28241 spring-loaded one]. There's some screws and springs needed, but the filament loading should be much more smooth and it's easier to clean the feed gear. | ||
Revision as of 22:15, 20 January 2013
This is a quick list of great upgrades to improve the printing quality of the MakerBot Replicator 1.
Top Upgrades
Below is a list of some good tips for improving printing performance and accuracy.
- First major upgrade should be side panels and maybe a hood. You want to control the air flow in the print chamber and help keep the chamber temperature stable. This will greatly minimize, or maybe eliminate, peeling/curling of ABS prints. A cheap method is to just use a few large paper sheets to cover up the sides including the top.
- Flash the Sailfish Firmware. The standard firmware is fine, but the Sailfish firmware, and the Sailfish team, are more responsive and consistent. The end result is the prints seem to be much better with less fuss. Your mileage may vary though.
- Proper nozzle gap. Once you figure out the leveling thing, you then have to get the proper gap between the nozzle and the plate. The bead should be flatter than rounder. Too flat and the nozzle will clog. Too round and the parts won't stick. Print a one layer thick item, then measure it and make sure it is within 0.02mm(ish) of the target layer height (0.1-0.3mm)
- Next major tool is leveling. Get a dial gauge indicator and print a mounting bracket. This will help get your platform level much faster. Also, level while the platform is heated.
- Replace the MK8 delrin plungers with a spring-loaded one. There's some screws and springs needed, but the filament loading should be much more smooth and it's easier to clean the feed gear.
- Change the rubber feet. Print out a set of round feet and apply four adhesive non-skid gripper pads to the bottom to minimize vibrations and noise.
- Upgrade to Orion fans. The stock fans can wear out and is a bit noise.
- Add a glass plate on top of the aluminum platform. This makes sure the platform is absolutely level and there's no need to use kapton tape anymore. A group on Thingiverse is selling remade plates.
- Upgrade to aluminum heated platform arms - the plastic arms that hold the platform in place and connected to the Z axis. Not really needed if the prints generally are fine, but it might help minimize vibrations/oscillations as the heads move.
